Spectroscopic Characterization and Dye-Fibre Affinity of Plant-Based Textile Dyes on Natural Fibres

Authors

  • Razaq Olatunde Rom KALILU Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Ladoke Akintola University of Technology (LAUTECH), Ogbomoso, Nigeria
  • Funke-Wale Taiwo OMISAKIN Department of Art and Design, Osun State Polytechnic, Iree

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.61424/ijah.v4i2.932

Keywords:

Sustainable Tourism, Development, Knowledge Economy, Tourism Governance, Cultural Heritage, Sustainability, Economic Development, International Student Mobility

Abstract

The increasing environmental and health hazards associated with synthetic textile dyes have necessitated intensive research into plant-based alternatives. This study presents a systematic spectroscopic characterization and dye-fibre affinity investigation of fifteen plant-derived textile dyes extracted from leaves, bark of trees, roots, fruit peels, and sheaths from plant materials sourced in Osun and Oyo States, Nigeria. Aqueous extraction was employed, and the extracted dyes were applied to cotton and silk fabrics using three mordants, alum, lemon juice, and cocoa pod ash, through pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting techniques. Characterization was conducted using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-Vis) spectroscopy to identify functional groups and chromophoric systems. FTIR analysis revealed the presence of hydroxyl groups (O-H stretching, 3267–3337 cm⁻¹), C=C stretching (1620–1680 cm⁻¹), and C-O stretching (1000–1055 cm⁻¹) across all samples, consistent with phenolic compounds, tannins, and flavonoids. UV-Vis analysis identified strong absorption bands in the 200-;400 nm range, with extended conjugation in neem bark, cashew bark, and brimstone root. Fastness evaluation showed that cotton consistently outperformed silk in wash, light, and rubbing fastness, with bark-derived dyes demonstrating the highest performance (ratings 4–5). Alum and cocoa pod ash mordants produced superior fastness compared to lemon juice. The findings demonstrate the viability of these plant-derived dyes for sustainable textile applications and contribute scientific evidence to support their adoption in studio practice and cottage textile industries.

References

Ado, A., Yahaya, A., Kwalli, A. A., & Abdulkadir, R. S. (2014). Dyeing of textiles with eco-friendly natural dyes: A review. International Journal of Environmental Monitoring and Analysis, 2(6), 310–315. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ijema.20140206.13

Adedokun, O., Oyetade, J. A., Adebayo, G. B., & Ishola, A. A. (2016). Extraction and application of dyes from Cola nitida as colourant for textiles. Journal of Natural Product and Plant Resources, 6(2), 12–18.

Adetuyi, F. O., Salawu, S. O., Baiyewu, R. A., & Odeniyi, B. (2005). Phytochemical screening and antimicrobial activity of stem bark extracts of Morinda lucida (Benth). African Journal of Biotechnology, 4(7), 727–730.

Akogou, F. U. G., Kayodé, A. P. P., den Besten, H. M. W., & Linnemann, A. R. (2018). Food colors from dye sorghum for use in a traditional fermented dairy product. Food Chemistry, 245, 502–507. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2017.10.146

Akarslan, F., & Demilaray, B. (2015). The effects of some chemical substances used in the textile industry on human health. Textile Research Journal, 85(12), 1308–1317.

Ali, S., Hussain, T., & Nawaz, R. (2009). Optimization of alkaline extraction of natural dye from Henna leaves and its dyeing on cotton by exhaust method. Journal of Cleaner Production, 17(1), 61–66. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2008.03.001

Ali, H., Bhatti, I. A., Iqbal, M., & Ahmed, A. (2014). Influence of gamma irradiation and metallic mordants on dyeing with natural dyes extracted from red calico. International Journal of Agriculture and Biology, 16(4), 801–805.

Ali, S., Muhammad, F., Fatima, M., Khan, M. A., Iqbal, M., & Ahmad, F. (2016). Enhancement of the dyeing and fastness properties of natural dyes extracted from henna on mordanted cotton fabrics. Coloration Technology, 132(1), 13–19.

Areo, M. S. (2013). Continuity and change in Adire production among the Yoruba of south-west Nigeria. Textile History, 44(1), 109–127. https://doi.org/10.1179/0040496913Z.0000000008

Arima, H., & Danno, G. I. (2002). Isolation of antimicrobial compounds from guava (Psidium guajava L.) and their structural elucidation. Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, 66(8), 1727–1730.

Arscott, S. A., & Tanumihardjo, S. A. (2010). Carrots of many colors provide basic nutrition and bioavailable phytochemicals acting as a functional food. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 9(2), 223–239.

Awika, J. M., Rooney, L. W., & Waniska, R. D. (2004). Properties of 3-deoxyanthocyanins from sorghum. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 52(14), 4388–4394.

Bechtold, T., & Mussak, R. (Eds.). (2009). Handbook of natural colorants. John Wiley & Sons.

Biswas, K., Chattopadhyay, I., Banerjee, R. K., & Bandyopadhyay, U. (2002). Biological activities and medicinal properties of neem (Azadirachta indica). Current Science, 82(11), 1336–1345.

Broadbent, A. D. (2001). Basic principles of textile coloration. Society of Dyers and Colourists.

Burkill, H. M. (1985). The useful plants of West Tropical Africa (Vol. 1). Royal Botanic Gardens.

Bushira, A., Olayinka, O., & Sifau, A. (2018). Natural dyes in textiles: Sources, types, and applications. Journal of Applied Chemistry, 11(3), 45–52.

Cardon, D. (2007). Natural dyes: Sources, tradition, technology and science. Archetype Publications.

Cisse, M., Vaillant, F., Kane, A., Ndiaye, O., & Dornier, M. (2012). Selecting ultrafiltration and nanofiltration membranes to concentrate anthocyanins from roselle extract (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.). Food Research International, 48(2), 595–600.

Da-Costa-Rocha, I., Bonnlaender, B., Sievers, H., Pischel, I., & Heinrich, M. (2014). Hibiscus sabdariffa L.: A phytochemical and pharmacological review. Food Chemistry, 165, 424–443.

Dalziel, J. M. (1937). The useful plants of West Tropical Africa. Crown Agents for the Colonies.

Dhanush, A., Santhosh, K., & Premkumar, R. (2020). Extraction and chemical characterization of leaf and flower dyes from Lantana camara. Journal of Natural Products, 13(4), 1–12.

Geetha, M., Sumathy, M., & Judia, S. S. (2013). Extraction of natural dyes from plants: A comprehensive study. International Journal of Textile and Fashion Technology, 3(1), 1–14.

Gupta, S. C., Patchva, S., & Aggarwal, B. B. (2013). Therapeutic roles of curcumin: Lessons learned from clinical trials. AAPS Journal, 15(1), 195–218.

Hewlings, S. J., & Kalman, D. S. (2017). Curcumin: A review of its effects on human health. Foods, 6(10), 92.

Jabar, J. M., Adewale, O. A., & Adesina, O. A. (2024). Microwave-assisted extraction of natural dye from cashew bark and application on cotton fabrics. Journal of Natural Fibers, 21(1), 1–12.

Kalilu, R. O. R. (1991). The symbolism of Yoruba textile art. Unpublished doctoral thesis, University of London.

Kasiri, M. B., & Safapour, S. (2014). Natural dyes and antimicrobials for green treatment of textiles. Environmental Chemistry Letters, 12(1), 1–13.

Kothari, V. K., Saloni, B., & Saif, H. (2021). Natural dyes: Exploring a plant palette. Journal of Natural Products Research, 35(9), 1–18.

Krishna, G., Babu, C. R., Sreevidya, N., & Rajesh, K. (2003). Medicinal plants and ethnobotany of neem (Azadirachta indica). Indian Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 84(2), 56–73.

Krizova, H. (2015). Natural dyes: Their past, present, future and sustainability. Recent Developments in Fibrous Material Science, 12, 1–16.

Kulkarni, S. S., Gokhale, A. V., Bodake, U. M., & Pathade, G. R. (2011). Cotton dyeing with natural dye extracted from pomegranate (Punica granatum) peel. Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 1(2), 135–139.

Liles, J. N. (1990). The art and craft of natural dyeing: Traditional recipes for modern use. University of Tennessee Press.

Lim, T. K. (2012). Edible medicinal and non-medicinal plants: Volume 3, fruits. Springer.

Lizamoni, H., Smita, J., & Ava, M. (2021). Classification of natural dyes and mordanting methods: A review. Journal of Textile Science and Technology, 7(2), 85–100.

Melo, M. J. (2023). A brief history of natural dyes. In M. J. Melo & A. J. Parola (Eds.), Natural dyes and pigments (pp. 3–18). Royal Society of Chemistry.

Miah, M. R., Abdullah, M. I., & Tauhidul, S. (2017). Extraction and application of natural dyes from various plant sources on silk fabric. Journal of Bioresource Technology Reports, 5(1), 14–20.

Mohammed, A. B. (2015). Extraction of eco-friendly natural dyes from mango leaves and application on silk fabric. International Journal of Natural Fibers, 12(4), 271–280.

Morton, J. F. (1987). Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton.

Muhammadu, S. M., Muhammadu, S. S., & Okoro, C. (2017). Extraction and characterization of colourant from ripe cashew fruits. International Journal of Applied Chemistry, 13(3), 271–286.

Mutasim, A. A., Yassir, M., & Haroon, H. (2018). Overview of the utilization of banana plant extract for dyeing of textile materials. Journal of Natural Fiber, 15(6), 831–840.

Nwonye, O. B., & Ezema, F. I. (2017). Dye and colouring potentials from Guinea corn using different techniques of dye extraction. International Journal of Textile and Apparel Technology, 7(1), 1–9.

Opoku-Asare, N. A., Korankye, A. A., & Adu, G. (2013). Efficacy of dyes extracted from some local plants for colouring cotton fabrics. Research Journal of Applied Sciences, Engineering and Technology, 6(16), 3006–3012.

Oyeleke, G. O., Ajiboye, O. B., & Amusa, L. A. (2021). Extraction and characterization of natural dyes from dried sunflower petals. Journal of Chemical Society of Nigeria, 46(2), 124–131.

Polakoff, C. (1971). African textiles and dyeing techniques. Routledge and Kegan Paul.

Prasad, S., & Aggarwal, B. B. (2011). Turmeric, the golden spice: From traditional medicine to modern medicine. In I. F. F. Benzie & S. Wachtel-Galor (Eds.), Herbal medicine (pp. 263–288). CRC Press.

Rahayuningsih, M., Priadie, B., & Andarini, R. (2019). Growth characteristics of neem (Azadirachta indica) in various water conditions. Journal of Tropical Biology and Conservation, 16(2), 44–56.

Ravindran, P. N., Nirmal Babu, K., & Sivaraman, K. (2007). Turmeric: The genus Curcuma. CRC Press.

Reazudding, M., Abdullah, M., & Tauhidul, I. (2016). Utilization of banana plant waste as natural dye source for cotton fabric. Journal of Textile Science and Technology, 2(4), 49–61.

Repon, M. R., Bhuiyan, M. A. R., Hossain, T., Islam, T., & Uddin, M. Z. (2023). Eco-friendly sustainable textile processing using natural resources. Environmental Science and Pollution Research, 30(1), 1–25.

Rubatzky, V. E., Quiros, C. F., & Simon, P. W. (1999). Carrots and related vegetable Umbelliferae. CABI Publishing.

Saini, R. K., Nile, S. H., & Park, S. W. (2019). Carotenoids from fruits and vegetables: Chemistry, analysis, occurrence, bioavailability and biological activities. Food Research International, 76, 735–750.

Salauddin, M., Mia, R., Rony, A. H., & Islam, S. (2021). Aqueous extraction of natural dye from plant sources: A review. Journal of Natural Fibers, 18(3), 357–378.

Samanta, A. K., & Agarwal, P. (2009). Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 34(4), 384–399.

Samanta, A. K., & Konar, A. (2011). Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. Natural Dyes, 30(2), 30–56.

Sangeetha, M., & Bhuvaneshwari, G. (2015). Extraction and characterization of natural dyes from bark of selected trees. International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 7(1), 252–255.

Saravanan, P., Chandramohan, G., Saivaraje, S., & Deepa, N. (2011). Revival of natural dyeing from bark of Odina wodier. Natural Product Research, 25(18), 1727–1731.

Saxena, S., & Raja, A. S. M. (2014). Natural dyes: Sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In S. Muthu (Ed.), Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing (pp. 37–80). Springer.

Sayed, S. A., Fouad, H., & Abdel-Aziz, N. S. (2013). Natural mordants for dyeing wool and cotton fibers. Dyes and Pigments, 96(2), 456–462.

Shahid, M., & Mohammad, F. (2013). Recent advancements in natural dye applications: A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 53, 310–331. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2013.03.031

Shallendra, S., Patel, R., & Mehta, B. (2017). Dyeing of cotton fabrics with teak leaves and arjuna bark extracts. Indian Journal of Natural Sciences, 8(43), 14178–14184.

Simon, P. W. (2000). Domestication, historical development, and modern breeding of carrot. Plant Breeding Reviews, 19, 157–190.

Singh, K., Arora, S., & Yadav, K. (2016). Environmental concerns and solutions in textile processing. Textile and Leather Review, 1(1), 1–25.

Tassew, H., & Zenebesh, M. (2014). Characterization and chemical analysis of natural dyes. International Journal of Chemical Engineering, 2(1), 44–53.

Vinoth, G., & Rama, S. (2018). Extraction of natural dyes and applications on cotton fabrics. International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences, 5(6), 26–30.

Yadav, R., Kumar, S., & Sharma, V. (2024). Advances in natural dye research: Integration of spectroscopic techniques. Journal of Natural Products and Resources, 10(1), 1–20.

Yusuf, M., Shabbir, M., & Mohammad, F. (2017). Natural colorants: Historical, processing and sustainable prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 7(1), 123–145.

Downloads

Published

2026-07-09

How to Cite

KALILU, R. O. R., & OMISAKIN, F.-W. T. (2026). Spectroscopic Characterization and Dye-Fibre Affinity of Plant-Based Textile Dyes on Natural Fibres. International Journal of Arts and Humanities , 4(2), 119–131. https://doi.org/10.61424/ijah.v4i2.932